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Zenith is more well known for their high-beat El Primero Chronograph, however Zenith also has created many elegant dress watches and chronometers. In the 1950s Zenith created the Cal. 135 an ultra precise movement to compete in observatory competitions.
In 2022, Zenith made an extremely exclusive 10 piece Limited Edition in collaboration with Phillips and Kari Voutilainen to recreate the Cal. 135 with the Calibre 135-Observatorie. It was instantly sold out.
And in 2025, to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, Zenith introduced the G.F.J. referencing to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. It features the new Cal. 135 with modern upgrades. It is made as a 160 piece Limited Edition.
The case measures at a classic 39mm diameter with 10.5mm thick profile in Platinum. The case is complex with high level of details with sculpted stepped lugs and satin finished case band with polished top and bezel.
The dial is complex yet harmonious with multi-parts, consisting of a Lapis Lazuli dial center, blue mother-of-pearl small seconds register and dark blue guilloche chapter ring. The hands are simple baton shaped with pointy ends.
Powering the G.F.J. is an update to the historic Cal. 135 hand wound slow-beat movement with a large 14mm balance wheel. The Cal. 135 itself is an important chronometer calibre for the manufacture as it was originally made to participate in obeservatory chronometer contest. It is now updated with new mainspring giving it a 72 hour power reserve and it is now shock protected making it capable of every day wear. It also features a stop-second function. The decoration is machined with brick pattern matching to the pattern on the chapter ring of the dial.
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In 2021, Zentih collaborated with SJX to create a modern interpretation of the Zenith reference G383 from 1969 with a funky dial distinct to the 1960s-1970s design. It was given the nickname Poker Chip for the design of its subdials that reminisce actual poker chip. It is made as an exclusive 200 piece Limited Edition.
It has a micro-blasted titanium case from the A386 model measuring at 38mm in diameter with 12.3mm thick profile.
The dial is striking in black but divided into matte black segments with Super-Luminova “Poker Chip” motifs on top around the Subdials. The indexes and tachymeter are also printed with Super Luminova.
Powering the Poker Chip is the El Primero 400 movement that is basically the same as the original El Primero from 1969.
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In 2025, Girard Perregaux brought back the Deep Diver, based on the 1970s cushion cased super-compressor diver’s watch. It was made as an exclusive 350 pieces Limited Edition and it was done in collaboration with Bamford Watch, that specializes in customizations. It was not their first collaboration as they have collaborated in the past such as for the Laureato Ghost.
The Deep Diver measures at 40.30mm x 38mm with 13.9mm thick profile in Grade-5 Titanium. It features a 14 facets polished bezel giving it a subtle contrast to the radial brush finished case. It has two crowns at 2 and 4, to turn the internal rotating bezel and to set the time respectively.
The dial is dominated with orange color with white and blue combination paired with a set of PVD hands topped with a 1970s inspired Girard Perregaux Logo and subtle Bamford logo at 6.
It is powered by the Cal. GP03300 self-winding movement that can be peeked through the blue tinted sapphire caseback with the Deep Diver logo.
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The Pioneer is H. Moser & Cie’s all-terrain sporty-chic automatic watch, with a rugged case construction. It has a 120m water resistance making it wearable for wearer with active lifestyle.
The case measures at 42.8mm in diameter with 14mm thick profile in DLC coated Stainless Steel.
The dial is bold with its sunburst turquoise color and flanged with a glowing orange ring yet highly minimalistic without any indexes. It is paired with a set of semi-skeletonized leaf shaped hands filled with vibrant orange Super LumiNova.
It is powered by the Cal. HMC 201 Self-Winding movement, an evolution of the highly reliable Cal. HMC 200 with a more open architecture, skeletonized rotor and anthracite finished.
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Introduced in 2005, the Tradition reference 7027 is a tribute to Abraham Louis Breguet’s “Souscription” pocket watch from the 18th century and is translated into a modern wristwatch.
This 7027 Tradition has a very traditional look with an 18K White Gold case measuring at a classic 37mm in diameter with 11mm thickness. Just as most Breguet it has a fluted case band, straight lugs and a thin rounded bezel.
The main dial is place at 12 o’clock with Breguet’s distinct guilloche pattern. It has a power reserve indicator right on the side of the dial.
Powered by the Cal. 507DR, that is dominantly frosted finished with some beautiful detailing giving us a glance on how all the gears and components work.
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The DB28 has been the flagship model of De Bethune since its release in 2010. In the following year it won the Aiguille d'Or award at the GPHG. Throughout the years there have been many variation of the DB28. And this one called the “Steel Wheel” was introduced in 2018. To explain the Steel Wheel simply is that it is the openworked version of the DB28.
It is housed in a lightweight grade-5 Titanium case measuring 42.6mm in diameter with a slim 9.3mm profile and thanks to the innovative floating lugs it can adjust to the wearer’s wrist comfortably. The screw-down crown is placed at 12 keeping the aesthetic clean and well balanced.
The Steel Wheel exposes the very soul of the movement through an architectural openworked dial. The signature delta-shaped plate still takes the center stage, it is finished with De Bethune’s unmistakable “Côtes De Bethune” decoration. The barrels, the ratchet wheel and the delta top bridge have also been open-worked. The concave dial plate is superbly finished with a black polished surface. The balance wheel is beating at 4Hz, is manufactured in Titanium with White Gold inserts - patented in 2016 and optimised for temperature differences. It is held in place by elegant shock absorbers, with the most alluring polish found in the rounded arms.
The DB28 Steel Wheels use a ratcheted chapter ring with inspiration drawn from the tooth profile of the gear wheels. The minute hand is hand-polished and flame-blued in steel, and the hour hand is made of sapphire crystal and rimmed by a nice chamfered and blued titanium frame. The sapphire hand allows a good view of the Cal. DB2115V4 underneath. At 6 it showcases De Bethune’s iconic spherical moon phase made of blued steel and palladium. If set correctly the moon phase indicator needs one correction every 122 years.
As most parts of the Cal. DB2115V4 is shown upfront and despite not much left at the back, it still has a six days power reserve indicator. The back of the main plate is visible and is decorated with a hand-made perlage.