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The DB28 has been the flagship model of De Bethune since its release in 2010. In the following year it won the Aiguille d'Or award at the GPHG. Throughout the years there have been many variation of the DB28. And this one called the “Steel Wheel” was introduced in 2018. To explain the Steel Wheel simply is that it is the openworked version of the DB28.
It is housed in a lightweight grade-5 Titanium case measuring 42.6mm in diameter with a slim 9.3mm profile and thanks to the innovative floating lugs it can adjust to the wearer’s wrist comfortably. The screw-down crown is placed at 12 keeping the aesthetic clean and well balanced.
The Steel Wheel exposes the very soul of the movement through an architectural openworked dial. The signature delta-shaped plate still takes the center stage, it is finished with De Bethune’s unmistakable “Côtes De Bethune” decoration. The barrels, the ratchet wheel and the delta top bridge have also been open-worked. The concave dial plate is superbly finished with a black polished surface. The balance wheel is beating at 4Hz, is manufactured in Titanium with White Gold inserts - patented in 2016 and optimised for temperature differences. It is held in place by elegant shock absorbers, with the most alluring polish found in the rounded arms.
The DB28 Steel Wheels use a ratcheted chapter ring with inspiration drawn from the tooth profile of the gear wheels. The minute hand is hand-polished and flame-blued in steel, and the hour hand is made of sapphire crystal and rimmed by a nice chamfered and blued titanium frame. The sapphire hand allows a good view of the Cal. DB2115V4 underneath. At 6 it showcases De Bethune’s iconic spherical moon phase made of blued steel and palladium. If set correctly the moon phase indicator needs one correction every 122 years.
As most parts of the Cal. DB2115V4 is shown upfront and despite not much left at the back, it still has a six days power reserve indicator. The back of the main plate is visible and is decorated with a hand-made perlage.
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Zenith is more well known for their high-beat El Primero Chronograph, however Zenith also has created many elegant dress watches and chronometers. In the 1950s Zenith created the Cal. 135 an ultra precise movement to compete in observatory competitions.
In 2022, Zenith made an extremely exclusive 10 piece Limited Edition in collaboration with Phillips and Kari Voutilainen to recreate the Cal. 135 with the Calibre 135-Observatorie. It was instantly sold out.
And in 2025, to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, Zenith introduced the G.F.J. referencing to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. It features the new Cal. 135 with modern upgrades. It is made as a 160 piece Limited Edition.
The case measures at a classic 39mm diameter with 10.5mm thick profile in Platinum. The case is complex with high level of details with sculpted stepped lugs and satin finished case band with polished top and bezel.
The dial is complex yet harmonious with multi-parts, consisting of a Lapis Lazuli dial center, blue mother-of-pearl small seconds register and dark blue guilloche chapter ring. The hands are simple baton shaped with pointy ends.
Powering the G.F.J. is an update to the historic Cal. 135 hand wound slow-beat movement with a large 14mm balance wheel. The Cal. 135 itself is an important chronometer calibre for the manufacture as it was originally made to participate in obeservatory chronometer contest. It is now updated with new mainspring giving it a 72 hour power reserve and it is now shock protected making it capable of every day wear. It also features a stop-second function. The decoration is machined with brick pattern matching to the pattern on the chapter ring of the dial.
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In 2021, Zentih collaborated with SJX to create a modern interpretation of the Zenith reference G383 from 1969 with a funky dial distinct to the 1960s-1970s design. It was given the nickname Poker Chip for the design of its subdials that reminisce actual poker chip. It is made as an exclusive 200 piece Limited Edition.
It has a micro-blasted titanium case from the A386 model measuring at 38mm in diameter with 12.3mm thick profile.
The dial is striking in black but divided into matte black segments with Super-Luminova “Poker Chip” motifs on top around the Subdials. The indexes and tachymeter are also printed with Super Luminova.
Powering the Poker Chip is the El Primero 400 movement that is basically the same as the original El Primero from 1969.
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Introduced in 2005, the Tradition reference 7027 is a tribute to Abraham Louis Breguet’s “Souscription” pocket watch from the 18th century and is translated into a modern wristwatch.
This 7027 Tradition has a very traditional look with an 18K White Gold case measuring at a classic 37mm in diameter with 11mm thickness. Just as most Breguet it has a fluted case band, straight lugs and a thin rounded bezel.
The main dial is place at 12 o’clock with Breguet’s distinct guilloche pattern. It has a power reserve indicator right on the side of the dial.
Powered by the Cal. 507DR, that is dominantly frosted finished with some beautiful detailing giving us a glance on how all the gears and components work.
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The 67621ST Lady Royal Oak was introduced in 2012 as a more refined and feminine version of the Royal Oak.
It features a 33mm Stainless Steel case with just over 9mm thick and it is paired with black leather strap making it suitable to be worn on smaller wrists. It is also topped with a diamond set bezel.
This Lady Royal Oak has a Grande Tapisserie patterned black dial and is paired applied marquise shaped hour markers and date indicator at 3.
For the ease of use it is powered by the Cal. 2713 quartz movement.
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The LM101 is perhaps one of if not the most sought after MB&F due to the more classical size in a much more wearable size at 40mm. In 2025, to mark MB&F’s 20th anniversary MB&F upgrade the LM101 and gave it the EVO treatment.
The case still measures at 40mm in diameter with 16.5mm height due to its high domed crystal and this time is in Titanium. So it is with the other EVO it features an integrated rubber strap that is durable for active lifestyle.
What makes an EVO is the innovative proprietary FlexRing, an annular dampener fitted between the case and movement providing shock protection along both vertical and lateral axes. It also has an 80m water resistance.
This LM101 EVO features a salmon color dial. The sub dials are now black with metal frames. And at the center is the large 14mm balance wheel suspended by a a mirror polished arc that has become a signature of MB&F timepieces.
The movement is an evolution from the original LM101 that is developed in-house by MB&F with the help of Kari Voutilainen for its aesthetic and finish. The bridges are NAC coated and finished in a typical 19th century hand finished movement with polished bevel and Geneva stripes. It is equipped with a Straumann double hairspring produced produced by Precision Engineering AG, a sister company of H. Moser & Cie.