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When Patek Philippe introduced the reference 5524 Pilot watch in 2015 it surprised the everyone. But it was not something that is totally new. Patek Philippe has created Pilot watches for military use back in the 1930s. But the 5524 is a new approach with their Travel Time function added to it.
As what a Pilot watch should be the 5524 is large at 42mm in diameter with just over 10mm in thickness in 18K White Gold. It features two pushers at 8 and 10 for quickly setting the local time and these pushers can be locked so that it will not get activated by accident.
It has a matte deep blue dial with large applied luminous Arabic numerals. It is paired with a set of sword style hand set and a white skeletonised sword style hand indicating the home time. It has a large date indicator at 6 and two small window indicating day/night for both local and home time.
Powering the 5524G is the Cal. 26-330 S C FUS Self-Winding movement with up to 45 hours power reserve.
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The 5960 is one of the most important modern Patek Philippe as for the first time the chronograph is paired to the annual calendar complication. And it’s not just any chronograph, together with the Nautilus 5980, it has the manufacture’s first in-house self-winding flyback chronograph movement. It has a unique feature that place the chronograph minute and hour in a single counter.
Over its 15 years production span, the 5960 comes in many different variation. Produced between 2017-2021, this 5960/01G was the last variant of the 5960. It has a more modern font on the chronograph counter and sporty colour scheme, dark blue dial with a contrasting white minute track ring, as well as red coloured chronograph hands.
The case measures at 40.5mm in diameter with 13.5mm thickness in 18K White Gold. Something that vintage connoisseur will appreciate is the pusher is decorated with guilloche finish reminiscing the “Tasti Tondi” pusher of the highly coveted vintage reference 1463.
The cal. CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H has a modern architecture and it carries the useful annual calendar complication displayed through three aperture between 10-2 for easy readability.
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The Retrograde Perpetual Calendar dates back from 1993 with the reference 5050. It was succeeded by the reference 5059 and then subsequently with the reference 5159. It pays tribute to the early 20th century “officer’s watches” - wristwatches adapted from pocket watches worn during military service in the World War I. A signature hallmark is its hinged dust cover (hunter case-back).
The case measures at 38mm in diameter with close to 12mm thick profile due to the hunter case-back. The bezel is rounded and it has straight welded lugs with distinct exposed screws that hold the leather strap.
The dial is silvery white opaline with radially arrayed Roman numerals with hand-guilloched sunburst pattern in the center. The calendar is easy to read with the retrograde date indicator stretching between 8 to 4 pointed by a red tipped hand. The day of the week, leap year and month indicator are displayed by three windows at 9, 12 and 3 respectively. And it is balanced with a moon phase indicator placed at 6 o’clock.
It is powered by the Cal. 324 S QR Self-Winding movement with 45 hours power reserve.
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The World Time, a complication invented by Louis Cottier in the 1930s with a capability to show 24 different timezone at the same time. The Patek Philippe World Time is an icon that is often overlooked.
The 5230P was produced between 2022 to 2024 after the White Gold and Rose Gold model was discontinued. It features some design cues from the legendary reference 2523 from the 1950s. It measures at a classic 38.5mm with just around 10mm thick and it has a winglet style lugs with prominent bevel. Just it is with any Platinum case Patek Philippe it has a diamond set on the case at 6 o’clock.
The dial is more contemporary looking with a sunburst finish graduating from blue in the center to black towards the edge of the dial. In the center it is guilloche finished a signature of Patek Philippe World Time watches.
Just like its predecessor, the 5230P is powered by Patek Philippe’s Cal. 240 HU (Heure Universelle) with micro-rotor and an easy to use adjuster at 10.
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Ebel, a Swiss brand originated in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, well known for their Sport Classic model with wave-shaped bracelet and fluid, slim profile. It reached its peak popularity in the 1980s to the 1990s after Don Johnson was spotted wearing it in the hit movie Miami Vice.
The 1911 Voyager was first introduced in the late 1980s with a “world time” complication allowing the wearer to track multiple timezone simultaneously.
The case is rounded hexagonal based with distinct 5 exposed screws around the bezel. It measures at 38mm with 10mm thick profile in Stainless Steel. It has a rotating bezel with 23 cities representing 23 different timezones.
This version has a silver dial with a silhouette of the world map in polished finish. It has a useful date window at 3 and 24 hour ring on the rehaute.
It is powered by the Ebel Cal. 124 based on the reliable ETA 2892-2 and enhanced with a custom Lemania world-time module.
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The IWC Flieger or what we simply know as the Pilot goes all the way back in the 1940s with their infamous Mark XI. Under the helm of Gunther Blümlein, IWC made the iconic Flieger available to the general public. And since 2007 IWC started a partnership with United States Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Program (known as TOPGUN)
This reference 388007 has a large 46mm case with 16mm thick profile in black Zirconium Oxide ceramic case.
It has a matte black dial with 2 registers laid out vertically at 12 and 6 with an altimeter style date indicator at 3.
Underneath the solid titanium case back with the TOPGUN insignia is the Cal. 89365 self-winding movement with flyback chronograph function.